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Glossary

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Aerial - Surfing maneuver where the surfer and board leave the water.  Generally accomplished only by really good surfers or kids who weigh less than their boards.  Like most tricks, 9/10 of these stunts fail.

Aggro – To be very aggressive, as in going for all the waves and pissing everyone else off.  Possibly appropriate in the middle of a content.  The rest of the time being “agro” is obnoxious.

Air – As in “getting air.”  Performing an aerial and one times out of ten actually “landing” it.

Amped – Stoked.  To be energized and excited.  Once we learned to surf, being amped is the drug that keeps us hopelessly addicted to the sport threatening our jobs and marriages.

Axe or Axed - To get nailed by a wave.  Also means to lose one’s job which is good news because you have more time to surf.

Backside- If one is  right-handed, going left on the wave with one’s back towards the wave.  That is, left if you’re facing the beach.  From the beach, the surfer is going to the right.  If one is left-handed, one goes backside while heading toward his or her right, or left to the person observing from the beach.  Clear enough?

Frontside- The opposite of backside.  If one is right-handed, going right on a wave with one’s chest facing the wave.

Backwash – Occurs when the tide interacts with the slope of the beach.  Basically all the water shoved on the beach has to return to the ocean.  When it does it hits waves coming in.  Creates an interesting stunt when a surfer hits the backwash and gets launched into the air.  Not very cool.

Bag it – End a surfing session and/or go home.  Generally said in frustration when the surfing is poor and people quit pretending that they are going to catch anything.  Also refers to placing food in paper receptacles. 

Bail – Leave.  Jump or dive off the board.  Most commonly used in those situations when a surfer thinks she has caught a wave but is mistaken.  Stranded at the top of the wave with no hope of successfully making the drop, most surfers will “bail” and try to cut their loses. 

Barrel, getting barreled.  Tubed.  Getting in a position where the crest of the wave actually breaks over (and not onto) one’s head.  This creates a barrel or tube.  Good surfers can actually make this happen while the rest of us get lucky.  The sensation is similar to that resulting from sex or illegal drugs.

Beach break – Surfing spot where the swell breaks on a sand bottom rather than rocks or a reef.  Beach breaks are usually less consistent because sand moves around and changes the ocean floor.  They are also more prone to “closing out” or not having peaks. 

Bent – To be angry and tee’d off.   

Bitchin’ – Good, as in catching a bitchin’ wave.

Blown-out – Waves are created by wind, but wind close to the shore ruins their shape and quality.  A blown-out surf spot looks like the inside of a washing machine.  Waves are still breaking, but they tend to be coming from every direction, usually resulting in seasick surfers.  Added benefit:  This is when one usually gets the odd splash of water in the mouth accidentally swallows.  Yuch!

Bodacious - extremely good- usually reserved for an attractive member of the opposite sex, but sometimes applied to waves.

Bottom – Refers to the ocean floor or the bottom (base) of a wave.

Bottom turn- Turning at the bottom of the wave.  Done right, the surfer accelerates and can set up for other turns.  Done poorly, the surfer digs the rail of the board into the water and plants his or her face into the water.

Bowl – A portion of the wave which has as a tube or barrel, but is particularly “hollow.”  Sometimes the bottom of the wave will recede, or the wave will appear to “bend” towards the beach which creates a concave area.  These sections of waves are generally fast, fun, and treacherous. Many surfers may enter a bowl, but fewer exit successfully. 

Bro, Brah - a buddy or friend.  In surfing we are all brothers, except those guys who take your spot in the parking lot, drop off in front of you, steal your girlfriend, surf better than you do, talk too much in the line-up, have a better board, or win your heat in the contest.. 

Bumpy – Ocean surface which is not smooth but generally still surfable.

Caught inside – The joyous predicament of being unable to paddle out through the waves.  The object is to get “outside” where one can catch waves, not get beat to death on the “inside.”  Generally happens when the waves are large but one can get caught inside when the period of the swell is very short; that is, there is a very short break between waves.  This is particularly embarrassing when all your friends are able to paddle out while you are stuck inside like a floundering turtle.  Surfer Magazine uses this term for their monthly article about inside dope in the surfing industry.

Channel – A place where the waves aren’t breaking.  May be caused by deep water or a rip current.  Surfers look for a channel in which to paddle outside.  Usually there isn’t one which means they get pounded trying to paddle out.  If there is one, its usually a rip which means they get sucked outside and well on their way to a transpacific voyage.

Choke – As in other sports, to chicken out.  This may occur when a surfer is about to drop into a large wave and sees his life passing before him.  Choking is associated with low hormone levels and other times with good common sense and an aversion to drowning.

Choppy – Same as bumpy, perhaps a bit worse.  Caused by local wind.  Really irritating sometimes.

Clean-up wave – A larger wave that breaks further outside than expected.  This creates the humorous site of everyone paddling for their lives (unsuccessfully) towards the horizon. The clean-up wave breaks, smothering everyone in white water.  At times clean-up waves will come in sets which makes the party especially fun.  You get clobbered by one, held down under the surface, and finally come up for a breath of air.  Right in front of you is number two or three of the set, waiting to have its way with you.

Close out, closed out.  A wave which breaks all at once.  When a break is “closed out” all the waves are breaking from one end of the beach to the other.  As a result, there is no face on which to surf.  More often happens at beach breaks, especially with larger swells.  Surfers in Pacifica are very familiar with this phenomenon.  They often go many months without seeing a shoulder to surf on.  When there is a peak in Pacifica, local politicians come out and the local media show up to get footage for the local news.

Covered, covered-up  - Getting tubed or barreled.  The crest of the wave breaks over the surfer’s body.  Next thing to heaven.

Crew – Group of surfers, generally but not always friends.  In the parking lot, the crew usually looks like something out of a bad cartoon.  Bunch of guys with either shaggy hair or bad crew cuts, unshaven, and wearing jeans and sweatshirts with paint stains.  Sometimes there are female surfers in the crew which helps keep the police away.

Cut off – The person who takes off closest to where the wave is breaking has the right of way.  Someone who takes off in front of a person who has the right of way “cuts him off.”  It is a good idea to cut off your friends now in then.  However, cutting off a stranger at some spots may result in bodily danger.

Cutback – A U-turn on a wave.  A surfer moves on the face of the wave away from where it is breaking.  A cutback returns the surfer to the breaking part of the wave.

Dawn patrol – Going surfing in the morning, often at o’dark-thirty.  Thank goodness the car knows the way to the beach, otherwise their would be more accidents.

Deck-  The top of a surfboard used for standing and spreading wax.

Ding- A fracture, hole, or ripping of the surface of a board.  Usually caused by other boards, rocks, or dropping the board while under the influence.  Generally causes mature adults to cry.

Down-the-line – Waves form a line parallel to the beach.  Going down the line is surfing the face of the wave while it breaks behind you.  This is really fun on a fast wave; that is, a wave that is breaking quickly.

Drop – The first part of surfing a wave.  Going down the face of the wave and hoping to hell one makes the turn at the bottom.  Some waves have a mellow, gentle drops.  Other waves “stand up” or pitch, making the drop really exciting.  Looking straight down on a ten foot wave will make your heart beat.  The rest of wonder about the people to drop in on 50-foot waves. 

Drop in late, take off late – Starting a ride (and standing up on the board) on the steepest part of the wave.  This has two outcomes: (a) getting to the bottom and cranking a beautiful turn or (b) digging the nose or rail of the board and burying one’s face in the water while the wave crashes on top of one’s body.

Dropping in – As in “dropping in on someone.”  Refers to taking off on a wave which is already occupied by another surfer.  May result in fist fights.

Duck dive - The practice of shoving the front of the board and one’s upper body under an approaching wave while paddling out.  The objective is to keep the wave from roughing you up and sending you towards the beach.  Sometimes it works.  Sometimes it’s a lame attempt at preventing the inevitable.

Dude – Male.  Call everyone you know “dude” and people will really be impressed. . . or throttle you.  This is one word that should fade away.

Eat it – Wipe out on a wave.

Face-  The unbroken part of a wave where one rides the board.

Fetch – Refers to the width of a storm that generates a swell.  Also useful term when you have lost your dog’s ball.

Fiberglass- What surfboards and powerboats are made of.  A wonderful toxic material that is ridiculously difficult to work with, stinks like hell, and fractures at every opportunity.

Fins- The things on the bottom of the board that help it go straight.  Fins are also handy when you’re looking for a cool scar when surfing in large crowds.

Firing off- When its good, its “firing off.”

Floater – A slick trick where the surfer ends up on top of the crest and floats to the bottom.

Glassy – Smooth water- no local winds which cause bumps or chop.

Gnarly – Nasty, ugly, mean, dangerous.  Also refers to the appearance of most surfers.

Going off – When the surf is really good it is said to be “going off.”

Goofy-foot – Surfing with one’s right  foot forward; usually associated with left-handed surfers.

Green room - The tube or barrel.

Grommit or Grom-  A young and usually very obnoxious surfer.  Groms may have unruly sun bleached hair and excessive pimples.   They may also surf well, which makes them particularly irritating.

Ground swell- a swell which is formed by winds far away.  Ground swells often result in good surf which means they don’t happen enough.

Gun - A surfboard designed for large waves.  Guns are long and skinny.  Guns are also popular at places like Windan’Sea in LaJolla where the crows and localism have gotten out of control.

Hang ten – A longboarder trick.  Standing on the nose of the board curling one’s toes over the front.

Hold down – Being held down under the water by a large wave.  Associated with getting caught inside on big days, or wiping out on large waves.  Hold downs are fun, especially when you see God and start to inhale copious amounts of water.

Hodad – See Poser.

Hollow – A wave which breaks top to bottom and has a curve or barrel.  Hollow waves can result in getting tubed or barreled.

Impact zone-  The point where waves are breaking.  After catching a wave or when paddling out, a surfer may find himself trapped in the impact zone.  Too far inside to avoid a breaking wave, but too far in to allow the wave to expend its force after breaking.    We sometimes refer to this as the “kill zone.”

Kick out – Turning to exit a wave.  If done well, this can look cool.

Killer – Awesome.  Good surf, wave, or ride.

Kook – Someone who doesn’t know how to surf and does a good job of demonstrating his lack of skill.

Layback-   A hard turn where one’s back is close or touches the surface of the water.

Line up- The place where surfers are sitting desperately waiting for waves to com.  Kinda’ looks like a bunch of bums waiting for a bus.

Lip – The part of the wave which is breaking.  The lip generally falls on top of one’s head.

Make it- To successfully ride a chosen wave.  The alternative is to wipe out.

Mushy – Condition caused by small or slow-moving waves with little energy.  When you see surfers moving very slowly across the water and looking really dumb, its mushy. 

Mushburger- Mushy wave.

Nose riding- When a longboard hangs ten, standing on the front of the surfboard.

Off the lip.  When a surfer turns at the bottom of the wave and then hits the top of the wave. 

Offshore - Winds that blow away from the beach.  Generally results in favorable surfing conditions.

Onshore - Winds that blow toward the beach.  Usually results in crappy surfing conditions.

Outside- The area outside the location where the majority of waves are breaking.  When unexpected waves approach, surfers may yell “outside” to warn their colleagues.  (See impact zone.)

Over the falls – Traveling with the crest of the wave to the bottom, usually with one’s feet extended in the air.  One of the most embarrassing wipeouts one can endure.

Overhead – Waves which are higher than one’s head.  If you are 5-2, this is OK surf.  If you are 6-4, this is good surf.  Head high to an otter is a small day.

Peak – The tallest part of the wave which (hopefully) breaks first.  Surfers ride the face of the wave away from the peak  Peaks usually don’t happen that often, but surfers talk about them all the time.

Pearl – To bury the nose of the board under water and usually fall.  As in “pearl diving.”

Period – Number of seconds  between waves.  Longer period swells make better (bigger) waves.

Pit – The base of the wave where the crest lands.  Also loosely refers to the inside of a barrel.

Pitched – Being tossed off a board.  A “pitching” wave has a crest which seems to thrust out and towards the beach.  Sounds weird, but this happens when a wave hits a shallow reef bottom.

Point break – A surfing spot where the waves have a natural peak resulting from an outcropping of land.

Poser- See Hodad.

Prone – Riding on one’s stomach.

Quiver - A collection of surfboards (i.e., arrows in a quiver).

Rad, radical – Extreme, very good, as in a radical turn.

Rails- the edges of a surfboard which generally dig into the water, forcing surfers to plant their faces in the water.

Reef break – Where waves break over a reef.  These surf spots are coveted for the damage they due to surfboards and one’s body.

Re-entry-  Returning to the bottom after getting very high on the face of a wave or exiting into the air (performing an aerial).  This is more a fantasy than reality for most surfers.

Rinse cycle – Getting worked by the wave, that is "caught in the rinse cycle"

Rip – To surf well and turn a lot.  Also refers to damage to wetsuits.

Ripping - Executing radical moves on the wave.

Section - When the wave breaks in segments separated by white water.  One may take off on a wave and find a section (of broken wave) breaking in front.  The objective is to get around this section and back on the shoulder (unbroken part of the wave). 

Set-  Waves travel in crowds.  Traveling across the ocean they sometimes combine to make larger waves.  These are called sets.  While surfing, “sets” of waves will appear periodically.  This may occur every ten minutes, 20 minutes, or six hours at some spots.

Shore break - Waves which break close to the beach.  Some areas have a heavy shore break which can be very entertaining for the crowd on the beach.  A competent surfer attempting to paddle out may be beaten to a pulp in three feet of water by the shore break.

shore break - Waves break very close to the beach.

Short Board – Boards that are generally around six feet or less.  This varies depending on the size of the surfer and the shape of the board. (A 200 pound surfer with a seven-foot board is generally considered a short boarder.)

Shred – To rip a wave or make lots of turns and splash a bunch of water around without falling off your board.

Sick – Really good or well done.  Also refers to the outcome of swallowing water on choppy days.

Slash – A u-turn or sharp cut back on a wave.

Snaking – Sneaking around (paddling) behind another surfer to get rights to a wave at the last minute.   

Soup- The whitewater or broken part of the wave.

Sponge – Boogie board.  Spongies  or spongers ride these.

Stick – A surfboard.

Stoked – Happy, excited, vibed.  What surfers feel when they surf.

Swell – A rarely experienced meteorological event..

Swell - Long unbroken waves caused by an ocean disturbance, such as major storm or hurricane thousands of miles from the location of the event. Swells come from all ocean-bound directions, depending upon the season. Typically, storm activity is greatest in the Southern Hemisphere from May-September and in the Northern Hemisphere from October-March.

T.O.A.D. – We stole this from another glossary but we kind of like it.  “Take off and die!”

Take-off – The start of a ride on a surfboard..

Three-sixty (360) - A maneuver done wherein the board (and rider) spin 360 degrees on the face of the wave.

Toes-on-the-nose - Riding a wave with one's feet at the front of a board. Nose riding.

toes-on-the-nose - Riding a wave with one's toes curled around the nose of the board.

Tubed or toobed – Getting covered up, barreled, or under the crest of a wave.

Tow-in – On very big waves, getting dragged into a wave by an inflatable boat or personal watercraft.

Wind swell - Waves formed close to the shore by local conditions.  Wind swells are generally wimpy.

Worked, getting – Getting held down and beat up by a wave.